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The Q&A CATALOG (above) has most of our pricing & diagrams/ information you NEED to know before you order. Once You Read this, and are ready to order, Start with the Product Finder page (above).   AFTER YOU CHOOSE your parts/ kits, GO TO CUSTOMIZE YOUR KIT (above) FOR SUBSTITUTIONS, COLOR CHOICES, ETC… Need More Help/ Custom Order? Call or Email us at info@easyfirepits.com and be sure to leave a phone number / 813-600-5592 (est)close

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Natural Gas is LIGHTER than AIR and goes “UP” whether Lit or Not; and is LOW Pressure. Holes Can be Mounted Up or Down: and it takes a much larger Nat Gas Supply to supply larger Rings and Linear Burners (even 24” burner takes a fair amount of nat gas and I never suggest a 36” Round Natural Gas Burner as its hard to supply). Rules: Always overstate what you need in BTU’s and run 1-2 sizes larger supply pipe to your fire feature! Always Leak Test! Suggest ¾-1” supply for 18” and smaller; 1-1.5” supply 24” or larger rounds. 

PROPANE (LP Gas) is HEAVIER than AIR and “Falls” whether Lit or Not; and is HIGH Pressure and a “Dirtier” gas. Should be mounted holes facing UP and If LP doesn’t immediately burn or its too deep under glass or Lava rocks than the gas drops and finds any crack it can to “drop” through! Avoid many drain holes and usually 1 or max 2 and 1/4” or less. LP can be dangerous as it can “POND” and will sit until it either 1) Ignites (3500 degree instant flash or flare up can cause 3rd Degree Burns) or 2) Blows away or dissipates. RULES for LP/ Propane: Don’t bury Burner more than 1” under; best < 1/2”. ALWAYS LEAK TEST! If you smell gas Leak Test AGAIN! Can run smaller diameter lines long distances; ie 3/8” ID hoses are fine to run 50’ or more. Avoid Air Mixer Valves. Use Darker Lava Rock or Glass as soot will Occur.


Propane Gas Is Heavier than Air and “Falls” and any leaks will “Pond” below your fire feature and build up until 1) The Propane Ignites into a Flash Flare Up – 3,500 degrees and instantly can cause 3rd degree burns – very dangerous; 2) the propane dissipates by being blown away as its well ventilated.  Don’t assume that you smell Propane and its “probably OK”. It never is! Always Read the Directions and above all “LEAK CHECK, LEAK CHECK, LEAK CHECK!”

I SMELL PROPANE? Should I? – If you smell propane gas while you are using your fire pit there may be a few reasons; Firstly TURN IT OFF and 1) LEAK TEST EVERYTHING AGAIN. This can be done by spraying dish soap or soapy water on the fittings to see if there are any bubbles that appear. if they do – it’s a leak and NEEDS to be addressed; again TURN IT OFF and fix these.  2) Did you put PTFE Thread Tape on any of the Flare Fittings (where hose female flare fittings connect to brass male flare fittings)? If so, that’s wrong. Read the directions; “NO PTFE TAPE ON ANY FLARE CONNECTIONS (where hoses connect). These are designed to be compression fittings and the tape can keep the brass from “compressing”.  Remove the tape and re-attach and then (with 2 open wrenches) tighten the female hose fitting to the male side and then an addition 1/4 to 1/2 turn to compress them. Check for Leaks again.. Repeat this process on any fittings until you find ANY and ALL leaks. Once you know all leaks are gone, or that there are none, you can turn on the gas again and Enjoy!  3) If You Still Smell Gas And KNOW there are no leaks; check the depth of the Burner under your Lava Rock or Glass. If it’s too far under (>1 inch) than what doesn’t burn will drop, and you may be smelling that “dropping” propane. Still Dangerous and needs to be fixed. Try to raise your burner to less than 1 inch under the surface. BE SURE YOUR FIRE HOLES ARE FACING UP for Propane as well.  Be sure that there is only ONE or maybe TWO very small water drain holes (1/4″) under the burner, and No More. Again, Propane Is Heavier than Air and Drops. Try Raising Up Your Burner and taping any and all open areas under the burner with Duct (thin aluminum) tape found in most hardware stores. Its used for Air Conditioning. These hits should all solve any reasons for leaking in your pit. If you should find a faulty burner or part, please turn off your gas immediately and get in touch with us at EasyFirePits.com so that we can get you a property working part. Enjoy and Overall, BE SAFE!



Basic Kits are only controlled by the Regulator at the LP tank. It’s harder to control “ambiance” type low flame burns as Propane reaction from Liquid to Gas is cold & the adjustable regulators use a diaphragm which clench shut as get colder if below the “sweet spot” of running at 2-15 PSI (1 ft or higher flames). When hardly open, diaphragm closes every once in a while and you have to keep adjusting the flame heights (play “chase the flame”).  If kids spins the red “fun knob” fire goes from nothing to 5 feet high! No Safety…

Deluxe Kits have safety built in. Intensity/ On/ Off is controlled by Keyed Valve. Regulator is wide open and Tank is On. Don’t have to go to tank until empty. Can Hide Tank >12-50 feet away.  Without Key, cannot change the flame intensity/ heights.  As deluxe kit is brass valve, and not directly at the tank, it doesn’t move due to temperature. Very consistent for ambiance to high volume flames. Less Spouse Strife…


Do I Have to Have a Custom Stainless Steel Insert for My Fire Ring?  

We have NICE ones, or  visit a restaurant supply store; try large stainless mixing bowls or pans in place of custom expensive inserts. They hold up to 18″ fire rings and have lips around them so they easily “drop-in” to tables; deep dish pizza pans, they work great, and again, once covered by rocks or glass, they function the same. cost <$20.  If the bowl is deep, put a cutout of cement board inside it to alleviate the amount of extra glass or rock you’d need and fill inside below the burner with pea gravel.  Don’t forget small ¼” drain hole; but only one or two max!

TROUGH PAN vs NO TROUGH PAN?  Are they necessary/ mandatory? NO.  Instead Try using a Cement Board (Cement board is a water-durable, mold-resistant panel for use under tile and other finishes in a variety of interior and exterior applications) (sold as Hardie board, Duroc, Wonder board…<$12/ 3×5 sheet).  These can be placed under thicker granite tops in place of trough pans (>$150).  Diagrams/ Pics



MY TANK IS ICING UP AND THE FLAME DIES DOWN? – The Propane reaction from Liquid to Gas at the regulator is a very cold one; much like Freon.  As the reaction occurs in “portable <100lb tanks”, tank gets very cold and sweats. Soon “sweat” turns to ice, and as more ice gathers on your tank, it can no longer keep the reaction occurring and flames will go very low and you’ll loose ability to change the flame size altogether (other than hose down the tank/ which warms it).  SOLUTION: if the tank ices up, or you want to prevent it from icing up,  you will need to find a way to keep you tank warm;best/ easiest… submerge half of the tank in water; it will insulate it. The water will get very cold but will not allow the tank to ice up for much longer periods of time and then a change of the water will allow it to last for hours again. Some wrap tanks in thermal blankets or use heated blankets.   JUST SOME THOUGHTS… Larger tanks don’t have this problem as they are designed to contain the cold reaction w/in their very thick walls.


OUR FLAME DIES DOWN AFTER A WHILE – And you think there is something wrong with the regulator? Regulators are manufactured & stored in the closed position so dust , etc.. wont get into them and affect performance. Unfortunately, this creates a “memory” and as the propane gas (cold) goes through the regulator, it tends to constrict or close off the flow and the flame diminishes.  TO SOLVE THIS: Turn up the regulator much higher and use the main propane bottle shut off to throttle Up/Down the fire intensity as well as the On/ Off to avoid this. This combats the situation for short/ long term, but be careful as a slight turn of the main tank will send up a huge flame as the regulator IS “wide open”.  OR, add a needle/ key valve to eliminate this problem. Regulator stays open, and key/ needle valve will control On/ Off/ Intensity.
As for air mixers, Easy Fire Pits does produce them, but doesn’t recommend them unless you have a completely open bottomed fire feature or excessive air ventilation in the bottom due to cases we have heard where the back flow of propane occurs when you turn off the gas, or if it is not installed minimum of 4″ below/ before the burner as required, or is improperly sized and not “tested” for the pressure – all of which are essential to using an air mixer. And especially in closed in areas under a burner (within a table) where pockets of gas can form.  As for the need, they are NOT NEEDED or REQUIRED for propane pits or tables; it’s really up to the consumer. They do lower the amount of soot that will form from your propane by increasing the amount of oxygen that mixes and burns more efficiently with the gas at the burner (also changed the flame color a bit to slightly more bluish).  We’ve never had a problem without them, and the minor soot usually washes away with the rain. Should you wish to use one, just please do RESPONSIBLY and check to be sure the valve doesnt backflow gas while the burner is running from low to high pressures. See this video we made for more clarification:


Where Can I Find Best GLASS Prices for My Fire Pit?

 I find best glass prices are at local dollar stores w/ “glass gems” (used for silk floral arrangements) and no I have not seen them ”pop” or melt under LP heat. they work fine for me for six years now and are 1/5 price of online “fire glass resellers”.  They sell for about $1/lb. Now I have heard Bed Bath & Beyond also has $2/lb.

Do Your Rings Whistle? My fire feature is whistling

No it’s not the burner. This is the case when you have a pre-plumbed gas installation and the installer used deeply corrugated hoses (like what you find at home depot) and DIDN’T use whistle free hoses. A whistle free hose is also a deeply corrugated hose but instead of the same pattern, there are loose then tight than loose corrugations which keep the hose from whistling. See our video on this.

How Large a fire ring or burner should I get ?

Burner size is mostly user preference. Our burners can sit along a concrete, concrete board or metal bowl side (as most heat goes up and not down) or can sit within the area. I think there should be minimum of 3” around a perimeter of a round burner or side of a tube; and at least an 1” past the end of a straight, “T” or “H” burner, but it’s purely user preference.

Can a propane tank Be below / near a burner inside a table?

Again, as the heat rises from a gas fire (opposite with wood fires where embers smolder heat downward) there is very little burning heat the transfers below a pan or a concrete board; especially with lava rocks or pea gravel or glass below the burner in the pan/ trough or enclosure.  Best to test heat below the table, or have a piece of concrete board whether under the pan or on top of the Propane tank (within the enclosure).

How Much BTU’s Are Your Burners?

If you are asking because an installer is running Nat Gas or Propane Gas to your pit or table or fire feature… always overstate what you need for future sake… Always run min of 250,000 BTU to a Pit and min of 150,000 for Torches or Table (<48” Linear Burner).

Can I Mount My Ring or Burner with Holes Facing Down?

For Nat Gas Can Mount Up OR Down as its lighter than air.  For LP/ Propane mount Holes Facing UP only (for safety).

Do I NEED an Air Mixer/ Venturi?

Easy Fire Pits doesn’t endorse every DIY’r using one, but does produce them. WE FEEL THEY CAN BE DANGEROUS and MUST BE USED ONLY IN EXTREME CASES WITH CAUTIONS UNDERSTOOD.  They must be individually checked on each system as they may BACK FLOW PROPANE GAS if they are improperly sized, used in wrong pressures, and WILL DUMP GAS when you turn off your Fire Feature. Propane is Heavier than air and that causes dangerous situations!  As for the need, they are NOT NEEDED or REQUIRED for propane; it’s up to the consumer. They do lower the amount of soot that will form from your propane by increasing the amount of oxygen that mixes and burns with the LP gas at the burner but we don’t feel the danger outweighs the minor soot that will wash away in the rain anyhow. And Its Still 1/20th Less Soot than Burning A Log

Are Your Products Natural Gas or Propane Compatible??

They are NAT GAS AND LP/ Propane compatible with NO additional orifices neededOnly Our Regulators are LP only, and by eliminating them, your kit is now natural gas (but you must have a way to regulate the flame intensity/ on/ off. This is don’t with A Key Valve, which also comes in all of our “+”/ Deluxe kits.

What About FIRE GLASS? Or LAVA Rock? Other Rocks Ok??

Lava Rocks ($3-4/ 10 lb bag) or Glass Gems/ Fire Glass ($1.20-7/ lb) can be purchased from online retailers or found locally at Dollar Stores, Craft Stores… I like Glass Gems as they are shiny and slick and soot doesn’t really stick well to them and the morning dew cleans them.  For Propane/ LP pits use darker glass; Copper, Black, Cobalt Blue… as they don’t show the soot as much. For lava rocks local outdoor supplies sometimes have black lava rocks…  For Natural Gas its clean so any color works fine.  DO NOT USE Skipping Stones, Regular Rocks or anything that isn’t heat rated as they retain water and under extreme heat will “Fracture” or “POP” and you don’t want a 150 degree rock popping into your lap! Avoid Granite, Marble, pebbles and regular rocks…



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