YES WE ARE OPEN & SHIPPING DURING COVID19; Build Your Own Gas Fire Pit or Gas Fire Table
YES WE ARE OPEN & SHIPPING DURING COVID19; Build Your Own Gas Fire Pit or Gas Fire Table
Heavier than air. High pressure gas. What's not lit, is like water and "falls" to either "Pond" and can ignite, or blow away. Fill voids w/ pea gravel to allow water to drain but not allow gas to pond. Dirty gas & produces soot. Mount Holes UP. Can run smaller hoses LONG distances. Use darker glass or Lava rocks to avoid seeing soot. Always leak test. If you Smell Gas, Leak Test AGAIN. Portable Thin-Walled Tanks Ice Up; read below about icing.
Lighter than air. Low pressure gas. What's not lit, goes up & can ignite in your face. Cleaner gas. Holes up or down (best up). Overstate what you need in BTU's to gas fitter; 150,000 BTU min to Fire Table and 250,000 BTU min to Fire Pit. Bigger not better w/ burners; or usually burns faster than can be supplied = lower flames. Run 1-2x size of the pipe they say; min 3/4" pipe; best >1" as it's the "fuel tank" to your fire feature, even if only from house to the fire feature. Leak Test
Flare fittings are also called compression fittings are rounded - see above - and the males sides are designed to "seat" into the female sides (to become one). If you thread tape them then they cannot seat into one another and WILL Leak; if not now, later.
We offer complete ready to "grab and go" kits for all aspects of what you may desire to build.. check out the video created by our staff to help assist you in determining what you'd need to create your next project.
Click the pic above or CLICK HERE for our in-depth video of our standard kits. We also offer specialized kits at the bottom of our KITS page at the top of our site.
Two ways to find items directly on our site:
1. Enter catalog name info the magnifying glass at the top of our site / or "Search" under menu if on your phone (ie "PH3" for 3 Foot Gas Rubber hoses)
2. or Under Menu Click SHOP for all items on our site; sub-categories to left (hoses/ fittings/ burners..): Click here for "shop"
Most people don't realize LP/ Propane tanks have 2 sets of connection threads; an outer (Acme) set and an inner (POL) set. Outer is for Low Pressure and is most common; grills, heaters, etc. Inner threads are for High Pressure connections and filling the tank. They are REVERSE THREADED = Lefty tighty! For our regulators push in the black hand wheel and turn to the left to tighten. When snug, stop.
Used to, but found cost over $1000 and lasted 2 years (in Florida salty air). Costing almost $40/mos to have ability to light your fire - no thanks! We suggest beefy Bernzomatic TS4000 or smaller LTR200 - Windproof, great for cigars, dont get stolen and LAST SEASONS! Light windproof lighter over burner, slowly turn on gas until lit, stand back and turn up. WORKS EVERY TIME!
Ever turn the gas on a grill on, and you click the push button igniter; click- click- click- click - WOOSH! Well, that's low pressure, most fire features are high(er) pressure. With Nat Gas, fire goes up, with LP, it goes down than up; dangerous! Light windproof lighter over burner, slowly turn on gas until lit, stand back and turn up. WORKS EVERY TIME!
YES WE DO! Best place to draw inspiration from is our customer completed projects "database" (ie our www.facebook.com/easyfirepits page). or just skip all the rave reviews and such and just go straight to the uploaded pics... 1000's of them: CLICK HERE
Burner size is another preference of the user but remember: BIGGER IS NOT BETTER especially w/ Nat Gas where it's easily possible to burn gas quicker than you can supply it = low flames. With LP bigger means any portable 20# tank may ice up quicker if not in a water bath. Too small looks like a single candle on a big cake; too large and the flames lick up the sides. ie. An 18" round burner is great for a 28-40" opening; gives room for wind and flame movement. Should always be 6-12" from the fire ring to a wall (pit) and 5-7" from sides / 1-2" min from ends for linear burners (tables).
We don't think every DIY'r should use one. Depends on your installation and only if it's well ventilated and you've seen our video about the dangers. Reduces, not eliminates soot. Can back-flow gas if not sized right. We prefer some LP soot (20x less than a wood fire) over the possible dangers. Use dark glass or lava rocks when using LP gas. video link: https://youtu.be/eEh__urnbAs
Still want one? Both are available here: https://easyfirepits.com/shop/ols/search?keywords=air&sortOption=descend_by_match
YES, our burners can be used indoors or outdoors as log lighters as well as in dual purpose wood & gas fire pits, as long as you protect the gas supply. With wood, embers radiate heat down; with gas, heat radiates up. Best to keep the burner attached to 2-4 feet of hard pipe inside and out of the pit, as well as off the floor, and not directly cooking under the burning wood; several inches below a grate (for cleaning & efficiency).
If you're going thru a surface thicker than 3" than we offer a low profile coupling and a longer key to make it fit (and you'd buy a nipple at the local hardware store depending on your depth). If shorter than 3" we suggest a 1.5" diam PVC piece to shim back the valve body from the surface.
Burner height is purely a preference of the builder/ user. Few basics we preach on pits: Keep entire pit at 12" or less from gound for enjoying warmth; and the burner be at the top 4" or so, so you don't waste gas to see it. Our unique fire ring mounting kit allows you to move up and down up to 3" (less actual surface thickness). Best to put burner above heat absorbing material (hardie board, concrete, pan, pea gravel...) and not just sitting on the bottom.
All our rubber and thermoplastic hoses are whistle-free. "Whistle-free" is generally about a metal hose. They are flexible due to corrugations in the metal down the hose; and much like a 'silly straw', when the corrugations are all evenly spaced out, and you blow in it, there is a terrible whistle. We use "whistle-free" stainless which means they alternate the corrugations to eliminate the whistle. If your pit is whistling, a rogue hose is generally the culprit. See our Video: https://youtu.be/OlyPs3qSMXg
Our heavy duty stainless pans (metal in general) when heated experiences expansion and contraction and concrete or hard tops don't give so you need to cut your cutout about 1/4" wider than the pan all the way around. The lip of the pan will cover it. Best way to reduce the expansion affect is to reduce the heat to the pan, which can be accomplished by filling the bottom of the pan up to the burner w/ pea gravel, and then glass or lava rocks from the bottom of the burner to about 1/2 inch over the burner.
WHEN CUTTING OPENINGS FOR INSERTS we suggest an additional 1/4 around in addition to the inside dimensions of your pan or insert. IE.. PAN38X10 (38" x 10" ID) would have opening of 38 1/2" x 10 1/2" to allow for slight variances and for expansion and contraction. Concrete and Hard Tops cut too close to the pan may crack if not adequate space around the pan. Also, best to put pea gravel from bottom of pan to bottom of burner and then lava rocks or glass from bottom of burner to 1/2" or so above the burner max.
By leaving an air gap of about 1/4 min around the pan/ insert, you give the pan room for expansion / contraction, by leaving just a bit more, and maybe putting High Temperature Gasket Tape like used in Green Egg Surround (around the table cut out), you reduce the risk of again passing more heat to the wood. Also Best to maybe use a lower pressure regulator or make sure the needle valve on your regulator is throttled down so that you are not "cranking" your fire feature as the heat from the fire can still be intense. Best to check your table top with your hands occasionally to be sure it's not too hot. if so, turn down the fire.
When installing our kits, burners, or key valves we suggest a 1" hole.
When drilling drain holes we suggest a few 1/4" holes, or if you wish larger, than to put screen over them and pea gravel over that (up to the bottom of the burner and then glass or lava rocks over the burner to max 1/2 inch or so).
For Our Torch Bowls/ Fire Bowls (B4BK) we suggest maybe drilling another 1/4 or so hole around the lower perimeter to further allow rain water to drain out if needed.
Drilling Holes in Metal can sometimes be challenging but we find the use of a Step-Up Drill bit for metal works well; sometimes called a UNITBIT and less costly available from many "cheaper tool stores" like Harbor Freight or Northern Tool
For all of our rectangular burners we now offer high quality Glass Enclosures/ Wind Guards/ Wind Shields that are custom fitted to our drop in inserts/ pans. Need one? Take a look at our selection: https://easyfirepits.com/wind-screens
We even have a custom video of how to put them together using a screwdriver and nothing else; no allen wrenches or anything complicated, just a phillips screwdriver!
Most kits comes with our REG20NV (20PSI) High Pressure BEAST (OVERKILL for Normal FIRE TABLE USES) but IDEAL for Fire Pits. It has ability to be throttled down via the needle Valve on it but is capable of 4-5ft high flames and recreate a true camp fire - must keep tank cool - see below.
Also we have options to Swap for REG3001NV or REG5NV on most products:
We recommend smaller REG3001NV Lower Pressure Regulator (1ft flames) for all smaller "not soo large fire table or big box store conversion" uses. Still capable of over 1ft high flames with burners up to 18" round or Linear up to 24".
Our middle ground REG5NV (5PSI) is capable of 2ft+ flames "still Overkill" in most smaller burner/ table situations but great for tables larger than 18" round or with linear burners larger than 36"; also good for most H burners. This is our most recommended option for smaller fire pits and larger fire tables. It also has the throttle needle valve on the back of it like the two above in case you need to set a max output for your key valve.
The Propane reaction from Liquid to Gas at the regulator is a very cold one; much like Freon. As the reaction occurs in “portable <100 lb tanks”, a tank gets very cold and begins to sweat. Soon “sweat” turns to ice, and as more ice gathers on your tank, it can no longer keep the reaction occurring and flames will go very low and you’ll loose ability to change the flame size altogether (other than hose down the tank/ which warms it).
If the tank ices up, or you want to prevent it from icing up, you will need to find a way to keep you tank warm; best/ easiest… find a $5-7 party tub from walmart or local hardware store (like the kind you put keg or drinks in), put the tank inside it, submerge 1/3 of the tank in water; it will insulate it and eliminate the icing up; even in cold weather. The water will get very cold but will not allow the tank to ice up for several hours and then a change of the water will allow it to last for hours again. Amazingly enough when you take the tank out of the water you see how cold the reaction was as there will many times be a 2" think ice cube around the bottom of the tank!!
An electric blanket is an easy way to keep tanks warm. They are UL rated, washable and produce an even amount of heat. Wrapping blankets allows you to skip the water bath altogether, so there is less hassle. Another plus is that they fold up and store easily and can be used for multiple tasks, for instance warming up people.
From an article we found online, every blanket found was made out of acrylic. They recommended a cotton sheet or a towel to wrap around the tank so that if any ice formed, it didn't make contact with the blanket.
(search Sunbeam Electric Blanket)
Larger tanks are thick-walled and don’t have this problem as they are designed to contain the cold reaction w/in their very thick walls. Should you start with a small portable tank for your fire feature and eventually wish to move up to a leased larger tank, they start at 40-50 gallons and move up from there. It's cheaper overall (I pay $65/ year or so to lease 2 hotdog 100 gallon side by side ground tanks). They can be usually situated up to 100' from the street and easily filled by the truck when you wish and can last an entire season easily.
BTU's are determined by not just the burner, but by the gas pressure, the line size as well as its length. We dont measure our burners in BTU's, and usually if someone is calling us it's because their gas installer is running a pre-plumbed gas line to a pit from a buried tank or street gas connection.
Again, if you are asking because someone is going to run gas line to your pit or table, than this is all you need to know:
For Fire Table get at or over 150k btu
For Fire Pit get at or over 250k btu
And, if running nat gas than make sure the line is at or over 1" from house to fire pit or table for max efficiency despite what gas guys say.. for propane it can be 1/2 and it's still fine as it's high pressure gas. For nat gas the line size and length is the "gas tank" as otherwise you burn gas quicker than you can supply it = low flames.
Simply tell them you need the BTUs above at the fire features and you will be happy! Our LP kits all come with a 20 PSI / 500K BTU regulator and it's far more than most need; but again the purpose of a fire feature is a ball of fire for ambiance and warmth; too much is never a bad thing; the key valve goes from zero to ... "holy s_it!"
EasyFirePits.com International Shipping Policy: Yes, we ship all over the world, and daily, but we do not have any control over import duties and fees from any of these countries. The buyer is responsible for any fees generated by your country from importing from the United States.. We ship most normally UPS Expedited International from Tampa, FL 33605. Should a buyer refuse a package be aware it may cost 3x or more the shipping costs to send it back plus any and all fees generated by your country to exit and bring it back; sometimes this is more costly than the package itself. Any refunds will be for the cost of the merchandise and shipping and less any and ALL costs to retrieve our package back to Tampa, FL (unless the costs are more than the contents themselves) at which point there will be no refund.
Are they necessary/ mandatory? NO. While we sell extremely high quality thick stainless pans, they are merely to make it easy, and provide that professional finished and sexy look. Feel free to try cement board (a water-durable, mold-resistant panel for use under tile and other finishes in a variety of interior and exterior applications). Sold as Hardie Board, Durock, Wonder Board from your local hardware store <$15 3'x5' sheet (over wood, ceramic, metal studs or by itself).
Also try cooking/ pizza pans, pots or mixing bowls from your local restaurant supply (<$20 and once covered by pea gravel below the burner, and lava rock or glass above it...function the same as our pans)
Ceramic or concrete bowls / planters... anything heat retardant which you can also find in a statuary or home improvement store... can easily substitute for higher priced alternatives.
Just like many department store gas fire features/ pits/ tables with the tanks inside, we offer kits for putting your LP tank inside (ITCK+ Kit). Remember a standard LP grill tank is not supposed to be mounted on it's side or it can leak the liquid propane into the regulator before it turns it to gas; which in turn can kill a regulator. Portable tanks such as 20# or smaller are designed to be portable and while will work for fire features; when using with larger than 12" rings and such, may ice up after a little use without a partial water bath or way to keep them "warm"; rendering the fire feature useless until the tank "cools" down (heats up).
The smaller a portable tank the quicker it will ice up so keep that in mind when you decide to put a tank in a fire table.
When you assemble our kits into your creation, assemble from your gas supply or tank to the mounting kit and instead of finally mounting the burner, you can purchase a 1/2" cap to put in place of the burner. Leak test the fire feature and once you feel confident there are no leaks, uncap the mounting nipple and screw on the burner; and even if there is a small leak inside the pit from the nipple to the burner... it's supposed to breathe fire from here!
Up? Down? Up? Down? Chicken? Egg? We suggest always mounting with the fire holes facing up; ESPECIALLY with PROPANE as it otherwise falls (as it's heavier than air) and can pond and become dangerous. As for Nat Gas, many installers like to mount the burners with holes down as to avoid water in the lines (we hear of that sooo rarely, we don't feel it's worth it). We prefer the gas going straight up or being near to the top of the lava rocks, glass, etc. as otherwise wind blows the gas (hydro static pressure) around within and sometimes it all ends up on one side or uneven, or can blow out altogether easier.
The flare fitting on the end of most of our hoses is a 3/8 Female Flare (sometimes known as a compression fitting). If your regulator utilizes a hose barb, you can first cut our rubber / thermoplastic hose end off and by utilizing a hose clamp reattach it to the other regulator and tighten.
Don't just take our word for it, search out "EasyFirePits.com" or EasyFirePits on google and read our numerous Google Business Reviews from customers such as you.
The best filler for below the burner and still allowing water to drain, but not soo much gas or heat, is pea gravel. It's ideal for any pit, pot or table (below the ring or burner). If you see our Propane instructions for building a fire pit, pot or table, we insist in using pea gravel to fill in any areas that may be hollow and where gas has the ability to leak, and potentially pond. In fire features that are not well ventilated (like most pits), should there be a hollow ponding area for gas to accumulate, the byproduct is an eventual "whoosh", which is also know as a flare up (3,500 degrees that can instantly cause first degree burns and or quickly melt the end off rubber hoses).
Above the Burner:
Lava Rocks ($3-4/ 10 lb bag) or Glass Gems/ Fire Glass ($1.20-7/ lb) can be purchased from online retailers or found locally at Dollar Stores, Craft Stores… I like Glass Gems as they are shiny and slick and soot doesn’t really stick well to them and the morning dew cleans them. For Propane/ LP pits use darker glass; Copper, Black, Cobalt Blue… as they don’t show the soot as much. For lava rocks local outdoor supplies sometimes have black lava rocks… For Natural Gas its clean so any color works fine. DO NOT USE Skipping Stones, Regular Rocks or anything that isn't heat rated as they retain water and under extreme heat will “Fracture” or “POP” and you don’t want a 150 degree rock popping into your lap! Avoid Granite, Marble, pebbles and regular rocks…
If it's a common question we didn't think of we may even give you a "little somethin" for bringing it to our attention. Click below to go to our Contact Us link. You'll be surprised how quickly we may answer.
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Fire feature parts manufacturer Tampa, Florida
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